The days that matter
Ghatasthapana opens the festival: a copper pot of water is set in a room of the house, barley is sown in sand around it, and the jamara that grows in the dark is what elders press into your hair on Dashami. Nothing much is expected of you for the next six days. Phulpati, the seventh, is when the ritual flowers and leaves arrive from Gorkha and the army fires the salute at Tundikhel. Maha Ashtami and Maha Navami are the sacrifice days, when goats and buffalo are offered at Durga temples and, in many households, at the workshop or the vehicle that feeds the family. Vijaya Dashami is the day of tika: the head of the household mixes rice, yoghurt and vermilion, and puts it on everyone younger, in order, with jamara and an envelope. The five days after it are for visiting the relatives you did not reach on Dashami, and Kojagrat Purnima closes the festival with a night nobody is supposed to sleep through.